I was desperately unhappy but the produce was incredible. Nectarines, apricots, eggplant: last spring I ate them all. Then came fall with pears more piercing than in my wildest dream! I picked a half bushel of apples and ate three a day. Some I covered in caramel, wrapped in plastic, and tied with colored string. Some I sliced up and paired with cheddar cheese. Mostly I ate them whole. I gaped at the price of plums, then bought six at once. But inoculations are short-lived: this year it’s Ritz crackers and margarine. Craving plums, I reach for a tomato.